Most homeowners have never had concrete resurfacing done before. You’ve agreed on a quote, booked a date, and now you’re wondering: what actually happens? How long will the crew be there? What should I do — and not do — while they’re on-site and afterwards?
This guide walks through a typical driveway resurfacing day in Port Stephens, step by step, so you know exactly what to expect.
Before the Day: What You Need to Prepare
Clear the surface completely. Everything needs to come off the concrete before we arrive — cars, bins, bikes, pot plants, garden furniture, anything sitting on the surface. This needs to be done the night before, not when the crew arrives.
Check access. We’ll need clear access to the work area with our equipment. If we’re doing a driveway, we may need to park in the street — let your neighbours know if this could be an issue.
Secure pets. If you have dogs or cats, they’ll need to be inside or contained for the day. This is for their safety (wet coating and animals don’t mix) and to make sure they don’t walk through freshly applied material.
Flag any concerns. If there are specific cracks, stains or areas you’re worried about, point them out to us when we arrive. It’s much easier to address concerns before we start than to explain them after the first coat is down.
The Resurfacing Process: Step by Step
Step 1: Arrival and Setup (30–60 minutes)
The crew arrives, typically early morning. We unload equipment — pressure washer, mixing equipment, sprayers, crack filling tools, primer, overlay material, sealer. We do a walk-over of the surface before starting, confirming what we discussed at the quote.
If anything has changed since the quote (a new crack, additional damage we couldn’t see under a wet surface in the photos, etc.), we’ll discuss it now before any work starts.
Step 2: Surface Preparation (1–3 hours depending on condition)
This is the most time-intensive phase, and it’s where the job is won or lost.
High-pressure cleaning: The surface is pressure-washed at high pressure to remove dirt, algae, loose material, and surface contamination. For coastal driveways with salt accumulation, we use a cleaning agent to lift salt from the surface and pores.
Old sealer assessment and removal: If there’s existing sealer on the surface, we assess it. Failed sealer — anything blistering, peeling or delaminating — needs to come off before we prime. This may involve diamond grinding the surface to remove the sealer layer and expose clean concrete.
Oil stain treatment: Any oil contamination (common on driveways) is treated with a degreaser. Severe oil contamination may need a specific oil-tolerant primer. Oil that’s not addressed will prevent the main overlay from bonding.
Crack assessment and filling: All cracks are assessed. Minor hairline cracks are filled with flexible crack filler. Wider cracks are routed first — a crack router runs along the crack to create a clean V-profile channel — then filled. The filler is allowed to cure.
Edge preparation: Where the driveway meets paths, gutters or garden edges, we grind and prepare the edge so the overlay can feather down correctly. A clean edge is important for the finished result.
Final clean and inspection: The surface is blown clean and inspected before any primer goes down. If anything was missed in the preparation, it’s caught here.
Step 3: Primer Application (30–60 minutes + drying time)
The bonding primer is applied to the prepared surface. Primer selection depends on the surface type and conditions — for coastal Port Stephens surfaces, we use primers rated for high-humidity environments with salt exposure.
The primer is applied by brush or roller, covering every part of the surface evenly including up to edges and around any features. Primer drying time is typically 30–60 minutes depending on temperature and humidity. In Port Stephens’s warmer months, dry times are at the faster end.
Step 4: First Coat Overlay (1–2 hours)
Once the primer is tacked off (partially dry), the first coat of cementitious overlay is applied. This goes on by spray — hence “spray-on concrete” — at a rate and thickness consistent with the product specification.
The first coat establishes the bonding layer and fills minor surface irregularities. For coloured overlays, the colour is throughout the material, not just in the sealer.
Allow time for the first coat to cure to the right stage before the next step. In warm conditions, this is 1–2 hours.
Step 5: Second Coat and Texture (1–2 hours)
The second coat of overlay is applied. This builds the final thickness (typically 3–6mm total) and establishes the final surface texture. For pool surrounds, the non-slip aggregate is incorporated at this stage if it isn’t integral to the overlay mix.
For stencil jobs: the stencil is laid over the primed surface before the overlay coats, and removed at the appropriate cure stage to reveal the pattern.
Step 6: Sealer Application (1 hour + cure time)
Once the overlay is sufficiently cured, the topcoat sealer is applied. The sealer provides:
- UV protection for the overlay and any colour
- Waterproofing
- The final surface colour and sheen (gloss, semi-gloss, matte options)
- Additional chemical resistance
For pool surrounds, the sealer incorporates or is followed by the application of anti-slip aggregate if not already incorporated in the overlay.
Two coats of sealer are standard for most applications. Each coat is applied in overlapping passes to ensure even coverage.
Step 7: Inspection and Handover
Once the sealer is applied and the crew has confirmed even coverage and no missed areas, we inspect the surface together. We’ll point out the cure times and what to do (and not do) in the coming hours and days. Any questions about maintenance or care are answered at this point.
After the Job: The First 72 Hours
0–24 hours: Light foot traffic only. The surface is curing. Light walking is fine from a few hours after the sealer is applied. Avoid anything else — no dragging items across the surface, no wet leaves sitting on it.
24–48 hours: Normal foot traffic, no vehicles. The surface is firming up. Normal walking is fine. Still no vehicle traffic on driveways.
72 hours: Vehicle traffic on driveways. For driveways, 72 hours is our standard recommendation before driving on the surface. Three days of cure time allows the system to reach the hardness it needs to resist vehicle loads without permanent marking.
Pool surrounds: We recommend 48 hours before the pool is used after the surround is resurfaced. This allows the sealer to cure to the point where pool water contact won’t affect the surface.
Temperature and humidity affect cure times. In hot, dry conditions (typical Port Stephens summer), cure is faster. In cool, humid conditions (winter and wet weather), we may advise waiting a bit longer. We’ll give you specific guidance based on the conditions on the day.
Avoid harsh cleaning agents for the first week. The coating continues to cure and harden for several days after visible cure. Avoid strong acids or solvents in the first week.
What the Day Looks Like in Time
For a typical single driveway spray-on overlay:
| Phase | Duration |
|---|---|
| Setup | 30–60 min |
| Surface preparation | 1–3 hours |
| Priming + dry time | 1–1.5 hours |
| First overlay coat + cure | 1.5–2 hours |
| Second overlay coat + cure | 1.5–2 hours |
| Sealer (2 coats) | 1–1.5 hours |
| Inspection + handover | 15 minutes |
| Total on-site time | 7–12 hours |
A full day’s work, from early morning to mid-afternoon or later. Larger or more complex jobs (pool surround + patio + driveway) run across two days.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to be home during the job? No — but it’s useful to be reachable by phone. For holiday home owners, we can do the job while you’re not in Port Stephens, accessing via your property manager. We’ll send completion photos.
What happens if it rains on the day? We monitor the forecast and don’t start a job if rain is expected during the application window. If unexpected rain approaches during work, we cover the wet surface and assess whether to continue. Light drizzle after the sealer has tacked off is usually manageable; rain while overlay is being applied is not. We’ll communicate clearly if weather causes any change to the day’s plan.
My driveway has a bad oil stain — will I be able to see it through the overlay? Oil contamination that isn’t properly treated before priming will eventually cause delamination in that area as the coating loses adhesion to the oil-affected concrete. We treat oil stains as part of preparation. In most cases, once treated, the stain won’t affect adhesion and won’t be visible through the overlay. Severely soaked stains may need additional treatment.
How loud is the process? Do I need to tell my neighbours? The pressure washer is the noisiest part — similar to a normal pressure washer. The spray application is reasonably quiet. We’re typically on-site for a full day but shouldn’t be causing noise that requires prior notice to neighbours.
Can I be home and watch the work? Yes. We’re happy to explain what we’re doing at each stage if you’re curious. Avoid walking on the surface once preparation is complete — from priming onwards, we need the surface clear.